Traveling During Covid

I have more than one good disaster travel story. Those usually make for the best stories, because who really cares if you just had a great time on your trip with no delays, lost luggage, robberies, injuries, bad weather or any problems whatsoever. But today added a story to my repertoire that I couldn’t have even dreamed with my entire travel history combine; which makes sense because none of us dreamed up a global pandemic interrupting our lives either.

So here I am, typing out an experience that I can’t quite wrap my head around yet. As some of you know, I have to admit to traveling a little during Covid. Travel is both my way of life and my income and it’s been a tough year. I have recently got a few assignments, and while I’ve been hesitant, I’ve also been desperate to get back to life as I know it (or the new life as I know which includes covid tests, masks, face shields, hand sanitizer, quarantines and staying away from people…all of which I accept fully.)

Today I was supposed to be going to the Galapagos. Prior to entering Ecuador, a negative Covid test is required within ten days of arrival and to go to the Galapagos requires another within three days of arrival. Forty-eight hours before my flight departed I took a Covid test from a lab in Ecuador that I had seen expats recommend and one of which a friend used only two weeks ago and had a smooth experience and returned back to the USA with no issues.

I got my results yesterday, got all my paperwork together (which is a serious stack of permissions to enter Galapagos besides the Covid test) and I showed up at the airport this morning three hours early (honestly so early just because I wanted to have coffee and breakfast in the airport lounge…yes…I’m a travel snob.)

In many countries outside the USA you cannot enter the airport without showing your boarding pass and passport and that is the case here, as well as showing the covid test, which I did. My senses always pick up a little when I notice someone holding my paperwork summoning over another person. About this time a representative from the company I was on my way to dive with showed up and as we introduced ourselves it became apparent they were not impressed with my covid test. There was also a large bust two days prior at this airport over fake covid lab tests. People faking their own tests and actual labs faking tests.

After about an hour of showing the powers that be at the airport my emails and my Whatsapp conversations with the laboratory that did my test, both the representative and the airport lady were on the phone talking to the lab and others. It was clear things weren’t going well, but travel in this part of the world and other places like Asia and Africa have taught me to just sit back and wait. Usually my method is staying calm and patient for extended periods of time eventually works. If not, crying is my second method…and in the case of arguing about my overweight luggage – starting to repack at the check-in counter while throwing my bras and underwear all over the counter is the third method (travel tip - pack those on top for easy access.)

With 90 minutes until take off, they decided I should go get another test, which is impossible. I used to do PCR work, the reason it takes days for the results is because the test takes a long time. There was no way we were going to get in a taxi, get a test and have it processed before my flight left. (Also – I was supposed to be getting on a boat…so not arriving today probably means no boat and the airline I booked didn’t have another flight for 3 days.) But I give in. Fine. If this is the game we have to play, I’ll get in the taxi (which is probably the brother of the airport person) go get another covid test (at the lab they told me I have to go to who their mom probably works at) which promises results in unrealistic times.

It took us at least 20 min to get there; it’s now almost 10:30 and they said check in closed at 11. We could hardly even get back to the airport at this point and there was a line for the tests. Plus they wanted to charge me $150, which whatever, I need to get on that plane. But then I started thinking about how this might be a scam. Was this just a way to get more money for somebody’s friend’s covid lab and I was the lucky gingo who they picked out of line today? I had also been messaging the lab the were saying was fake, as had the lovely representative from the boat, and the latest story was that the lab administers the tests but then sends them out to another lab (which apparently was on the list) so they were trying to get a results document from that lab.

At this point I decided I did not want to be part of the $150 covid test scam and I say to go back to the airport. Also – I have a bit of gringo-privilege. I don’t think I’ve ever not actually ended up on a flight for whatever nonsense someone was giving me in over 70 countries. In the end…usually at the very last minute…with tears…I end up on the plane. New plan – get back to the airport before the plane left. They weren’t really going to not let me on it….right?

Did I also mention I don’t really speak Spanish? Like beyond good morning and can I have a beer and where is the bathroom? All of this is way over my head.

We get back to the airport at 10:50….flight is at 11:45. The same lady comes back and still is like – no – this test was a fake. She calls the lab again and out of nowhere just starts yelling at the phone. I was like, what is going on? It was later translated to me that she threatened the lab with sending the authorities after them for charging people for tests, administering them, but then not actually processing them. There are obviously large fines for this. She hands the phone to the other lady who tells me that they will offer me a refund plus the costs of my hotel, new test, and flight the next day.

Basically I roll my eyes so far back into my head it hurts. Yeah right, like some lab a five hour drive away is going to pay for my new flight. I’m kinda getting to that sorta mad and frustrated point and I told her whatever, how are they going to get me the money? I’m not driving back there. She tells me they will transfer it into my bank account and I just need to give them my bank details.

Okay. So now is there a Nigerian Prince involved? I should just give my bank details to a company that has already scammed me? I mean…yes, I’m a gringa who can’t speak the language and maybe I look stupid…but no way. How many different scams am I currently involved in right now? I just want to get a hotel room and a cup of coffee and regroup. The flight is leaving in ten minutes. I’m not on it. And the airport lady is not letting me in.

I resign completely. I tell the boat representative that I’m not giving my bank details. But if she wants to give them hers and they actually transfer the money (there’s no way in hell they are going to do that), she can have $100 of it. Then I sit down on the ground (we are still out in front of the airport in about 85 degrees with humidity and the sun beating on us) and I open my laptop to book a hotel room. (Confession – it’s the Hilton, I’m so over this day, I’m going to the Hilton, where I have status and they pretend they love me and there’s a soft bed and comforting white walls which will make me feel so much better.) I also booked the next morning’s flight which may still allow me to catch the boat.

While I am spending money, the lady tells me they just sent her the money.

They.Sent.Her.The.Money.

I think my jaw literally dropped (no one saw though because of the mask). You have got to be kidding me. And is this not a total admission of guilt? If they didn’t fake my test, there’s no way they would have sent the money. I can’t even. Like I still can’t grasp that this actually happened. Plus like I just went through so many emotions in the last three hours my head hurts. I have this like adrenaline rush of – it really was a scam! How is this even real?

The lovely boat representative then calls her boyfriend to come get us, he shows up and they take me to an “approved lab” to get another covid test (which was awful – of the like 10+ tests I’ve gotten so far, this guy made me think he was doing internal damage to the inside of my nose and throat…and eyes.) Then they went to the bank and she withdrew the money. I gave her $120. They took me to the Hilton and dropped me off.

And now I get to try this all again tomorrow.

I feel like there’s some lesson to be learned in all of this…but the only one I can come up with is: There’s a Global Pandemic – Stay Home.  

2021!!!

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We made it through 2020 and my fingers are crossed 2021 will be better and hopefully as the year continues it will involve more travel and diving! I’ve been a bit behind on updating so here’s some recent publications (all of which are free to read online.) Best wishes to you all and I hope to see everyone (in person) soon-ish!

Check out Diver’s February issue to find me reminiscing about diving the wreck of Coron. Click this link to download the issue.

Over on Dive Log Australasia you can read about the brilliant colors of Fiji. Download the issue here.

Want to refresh your photography skills? I posted some quick underwater photography tips at Liquid Dive Adventures.

Ready to Dive? There are some locations open including the Bahamas. Ready more about Diving During Covid at All Star Liveaboards.

Meg Teeth

So this one time…diving for megalodon teeth…in South Carolina….

I managed to sneak in a little diving (if you can call 30ft with zero viz in a river diving)….

Read about it in the August UK Diver Magazine. Click for a free download here.

Dive Log Australasia is also letting readers download the latest issues for free, I have a piece on Truk Lagoon in the August issue.

Books to Pass Time

Hello out there! How is everyone? I’ve found myself with more time than normal during the pandemic and revisiting some of my favorite books. I thought I’d share.

Diving Books

100 Dives of a Lifetime - Carrie Miller

This book is perfect for right now! Need a virtual dive vacation? Want to plan your next dive trip? Get lost in some of the world’s best dives as told by Carrie Miller and incredible photos (you might find a few photos of mine in this book too!)

The Underwater Photographer - Martin Edge

In my opinion this is sort of the underwater photography bible. When I first read it years ago I felt like my photography improved through osmosis through the pages. Highly recommend this to anyone looking to imporve their underwater photo skills.

Deco for Divers - Mark Powell

For anyone looking to learn more about decompression theory, this book is great. It is easy to understand and discusses a lot of the topics recreational training prefers not to talk about. Even for those who don’t consider themselves “tech” divers, it’s an easy to read and understand text for things all divers should know, but often aren’t taught. Knowledge is so important even if you don’t plan to do deco dives.

The Soul of the Octopus - Sy Montgomery

We all love octopus. It’s a book about octopus - just read it.

Sex in the Sea - Marah J. Hardt

The ocean is so interesting! This book talks about some of the undrerwater world’s crazy reproductive behaviors you couldn’t make up if you tried! It also has a conservation theme and discusses how things like pollution and climate change are altering the behavior of some of these amazing creatures.

Shadow Divers - Robert Kurson

One of those books that is tough to put down, a true story about the discovery of a World War II German U-boat 60 miles off the coast of New Jersey. A must read for any diver.

Travel Books - My travel obsession has been fed by books. Paul Theroux taught me about long travel, spending week and months wondering without definite destinations and time restraints. Bill Bryson about the humor you must find while on the road. Kira Salak proved to me that even though I was a woman, I could go wherever I want. I love travels that seek out something - to travel to learn. Here’s some of my favorites.

Moby-Duck: The True Story of 28,800 Bath Toys Lost at Sea & of the Beachcombers, Oceanographers, Environmentalists & Fools Including the Author Who Went in Search of Them - Donovan Hohn

I love love love this book. A shipping container of bath toys spilled during a hurricane and the author travels to find where they all went. It’s a study in ocean currents, ocean pollution, environmentalism and more.

Eighty Days: Nellie Bly and Elizabeth Bisland's History-Making Race Around the World - Matthew Goodman

In 1899 two women set out to race against the fictional Jules Verne character, Phileas Fogg, to travel around the world in 80 days. Since reading this Nellie Bly has become a bit of a hero to me, a female investigative journalist over 120 years ago who at one point entered an insane asylum appearing to be a patient to document the mistreatment of patients without knowing how she would be able to get out. (You should read that too - Ten Days in a Mad House.)

Last Chance to See - Douglas Adams

If you haven’t read Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy, go read that first. But once you’re finished check out this book where Douglas Adams travels to see some of the world’s most endangered animals. Komodo dragons, rhinos, kakapos and more.

The Old Patagonian Express: By Train Through the Americas - Paul Theroux

He got on a train in Boston and ended up in Patagonia. My hero. My six month trip to South America after college can be directly linked to this book (and an Outside Magazine article on hiking Torres del Paine.)

The Happy Isles of Oceania: Paddling the Pacific - Paul Theroux

In this one he gets in an kayak and paddles through 51 islands in the Pacific Ocean.

The Malay Archipelago - Alfred Wallace

Better than Darwin’s books. Alfred Wallace also came across the idea of evolution while traveling through SE Asia. This book is his journey, his observations, and the difficulties one would encounter traveling from Singapore to New Guinea over eight years starting in 1854. Plus this book is suuuuper long, great for passing time.

Four Corners - Kira Salak

A woman’s solo journey through Papua New Guinea.

Pacific: Silicon Chips and Surfboards, Coral Reefs and Atom Bombs, Brutal Dictators, Fading Empires, and the Coming Collision of the World's Superpowers - Simon Winchester

This one starts on the United Island Hopper. You only think of the Pacific as paradise islands, but there is so much more.

Krakatoa - Simon Winchester

In 1883 a volcano went off in Indonesia and changed the world.

The Songlines - Bruce Chatwin

A journey through the Australian Outback to learn about Aborginals' ancient "Dreaming-tracks.” Chatwin’s In Patagonia is an excellent read as well.

Don’t Stop the Carnival - Herman Wouk

This maybe isn’t travel, or it’s the type of travel where you decide to stay…forever….and take over a hotel in the Caribbean. We all have that dream, this guy did it.



Books about Viruses - I used to study virus evolution, here’s some of the books that might help explain more about what’s going on, but easy to read and understand.

The Coming Plague - Laurie Garrett

Don’t say we weren’t warned. Actually this book talks about past disease outbreaks and how our social and environmental practices led up to them. From Amazon - “Changing social and environmental conditions around the world have fostered the spread of new and potentially devastating viruses and diseases.”

Spillover - David Quammen

David Quammen is another of my favorite authors and this book specifically looks at human infections that came from animals. Basically how diseases from wild animals are passing to humans. He also talks about bats (back in 2012). Sound familiar? He also has a great book on Ebola and the Song of the Dodo is a classic.

Viral Storm - Nathan Wolfe

National Geographic Emerging Explorer Virologist who hunts diseases. He also warned us of this.

If you want to read some really interesting case studies of how it is human behaviors that spread diseases, Robert S. Desowitz is the master. The Malaria Capers, Who Gave Pinta to the Santa Maria?, and New Guinea Tapeworms and Jewish Grandmothers: Tales of Parasites and People.

Okay - Last One

The Airplane Graveyard - Me

Okay so currently there aren’t many copies available of my book, but last time I looked there are a few on Amazon and I still have a few copies I could mail out (send me a message if you want one.) Printing has been disrupted due to the pandemic, but hopefully there will be more soon. This is a great book for anyone interested in WWII, airplanes, or diving.

A Few Days in Tuvalu

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Some trips are just more interesting than others. Some places more unique. Some experiences which unexpectedly reach out and pull you in. Tuvalu was one of those places and one of those trips for me. I have a small obsession with visiting atolls, the island nations that are likely to be the most impacted by climate change and the first that will suffer severely due to sea level rise, possibly to the extent that the islands disappear completely. The Marshall Islands, the Maldives, Kiribati and Tuvalu. Tuvalu was the last on my list to visit and not extremely easy to get to with only two flights arriving on the island each week via Fiji.

I planned my trip to the utmost perfection last fall. After working in Chuuk for a few months I would fly to Hawaii, then American Samoa, then Samoa for an assignment, onto Fiji for an overnight layover and to Tuvalu. Then five days later back to Fiji and onward to Hawaii. The dates/times/flights/hotels matched up perfectly. But we know these things never work out that way, especially when island travel is concerned…during cyclone season (I always tell myself I should pay more attention to things like cyclone season when I’m planning equatorial trips…but so far I don’t every time).

My flight out of Chuuk was delayed due to the travel restrictions and then my Hawaii flight was delayed due to a cyclone. My flight out of American Samoa was three days later because of another cyclone, which meant pushing the rest of the trip back so I could complete my assignment. I ended up changing eight flights total and paid almost as much in change fees as the flights cost to begin with (well…almost, a lot of frequent flier miles were involved too.)

Either way, when I finally arrived in Tuvalu it felt like I’d already accomplished something big. Maybe that’s part of the reason I love travel so much, it whittles life down into this very minor successes that seem huge. You appreciate things you otherwise would have never considered. I still remember wandering the streets of Montevideo, Uruguay a long time ago in search of a post office to get a stamp and mail a postcard (to myself btw) very nearly missing my departure ferry back to Argentina. Yes, I spent an entire day in Uruguay frantically trying to mail a letter (knowing very little Spanish) with the determination most would save for a much more critical task. I did finally mail the postcard (to myself) and I got to the ferry before departure. Small successes are huge when you don’t know where you are, you cannot speak the language, and when all the handsome men smile at your terrible attempt at Spanish, no comprende, and point you in the wrong direction.

I am wondering off topic. Tuvalu was a really rare kind of place. The tiny atoll, where in some parts of the thin island you can almost leap from ocean side to lagoon side, with one small road lead from end to end. I rented a bicycle (kwaj habits die hard) and made my way in the sweltering heat towards the northern end my first day. I always find myself comparing new places to those I’ve been to before, a sometimes bad habit I wish I could break. It’s hard not to take newness and unknown and try to make it familiar, a coping technique to wrap our minds around the unfamiliar. So, of course, my seeking to familiarize my new destination conjured up memories of the Marshall Islands (but with motorbikes) and of walking around Kiribati, both narrow islands hardly above sea level.

Reminiscent of many poor Pacific Island nations, parks of old shipping containers helped build houses with corrugated metal walls and roofs and sometimes a whole container being used as a building or structure. Colorful laundry brightened the monotonous green foliage and blue ocean views. A rainbow of vibrant flower pattern dresses and t-shirts with messages of far away; the undesired second hand Salvation Army donations with messages of class reunions and charity walks from literally thousands of miles away were hanging out to dry or laying out on mats.

Motorbikes zoomed passed me. I actually prefer walking through a new place. I find I take more in at a slow pace. But while the island was thin, it was long (and it was tremendously hot outside). So I pedaled my bike aiming for patches of shade under the palm trees on either side of the road and embraced any small breeze.  Nearing the end of the island I came to a fence, unsure if I had permission to pass, but it was open and I didn’t see anyone around, so I continued. The road turned to dirt and I started to notice crushed cans and plastic bits of garbage on the ground. Looking around it soon became evident that I was at the dump. I could still see from side to side of the island but what was in between was a mound of trash.

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The environmentalist inside me died a little. I could hear the roar of ocean waves to one side and it wouldn’t take much wind or a storm to blow that water up and over the island, into the dump and take with it the trash either into the lagoon or back to the open ocean. Even while I stood there staring at the trash the calm wind grabbed bits of plastic and carried them right into the water. I suppose I don’t have a better solution of how these people should deal with their trash. But this did not seem a very good one.

The lovely woman who picked me up when I landed in Tuvalu asked me if I had any plans for the night (I didn’t) and she invited me to “join her congregation.”  I thought she invited me to church, and I enjoy attending island worshiping ceremonies which often have singing and flowers and colorful Hawaiian-style shirts and dresses (and you usually need an invite). It was a Monday, so I wasn’t sure what would be happening on a Monday night, but she said there would be singing and local dancing.

Returning from my bike ride sweaty, sunburnt and tired; I jumped in the shower to get ready. Even in the hottest of places cold water showers always feel shocking to me, how is it that water could possibly feel that cold when it’s a million degrees outside? Like on most Pacific islands women needed have their knees and shoulders covered. I put on a long skirt and shirt with sleeves and went to wait for my ride.

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My lovely host arrived on a motor bike and she seemed to skip off it, running up to me and placing a flower wreath on my head. It smelled fantastic. She told me to wait a few minutes, she needed to have a cigarette and her husband didn’t like it when she smoked, so she had to do it before we got there. When she finished she climbed back on the bike and motioned me to climb on behind her. I was probably supposed to sit side-saddle, but I didn’t care to be Tuvualu-road-kill so I got on and held on for dear life and she sped through the winding roads while other motorbikes zoomed by. In Tuvalu they “sort of” drove on the left side, but often it seemed everyone just clung to the middle, scooting over to the side at the very last minute when necessary to avoid head on collisions.

Arriving at the maneapa, or meeting house, which is an open air structure with pillars around the outside and another layer of pillars inside. The floor was concrete and woven grass mats were laid on the floor. There were women bustling around setting up tables and laying out food and as people arrived most sat crossed legged around out outer edge of the building. A few men sat within the center rectangle. Children played, as children do, running around and peeking in through the window-like openings, finally taking their places seated next to their families.

The sky turned the rich color of a pink tropical drink and I could hear the ocean waves breaking on the shore only a few hundred feet from us. There wasn’t much of a breeze but any wisp of cool air felt fantastic against the hot, humid evening. I sat next to my host and met her husband who soon would move to the center with the other higher-ranking men. The women waved woven fans constantly to cool themselves and I wished I had one.

While I was properly clothed so to not be over-revealing, I was not color-appropriate. I was surrounded by bright green or purple flower-print. The men wore Hawaiian-style button up shirts of the color and pattern of their village and dark sarongs. The women were in mumus or other types of long dresses. I soon realized there were two villages present, one was purple and the other was green. I was with the green side. I also very quickly realized the skirt I was wearing, while long enough, was much too tight to comfortably sit crossed legged in. I should have worn my sarong.

The evening started with the head pastor giving a prayer and talking. It was all in Tuvluan, so I did not understand, but there was occasional laughter, so he must have been keeping his sermon light. Once he finished the higher-ranking men in the inner area each talked. My host said they were community leaders, her husband being a police officer. Basically this was a community meeting as well as church service. Prayers were said and community news dispersed.   

This occurred toward the end of February and the coronavirus pandemic was only just starting. One of the only words I recognized throughout the evening was “coronavirus” and my host told me they were discussing stopping all incoming flights to prevent the virus from reaching their islands. (As of today, April 8th, Tuvalu still has no cases.) When I arrived you could not get on the plane to Tuvalu if you had been anywhere in the last 14 days that had cases. When I arrived I still had not been to a country with cases (Hawaii wouldn’t get a case until three weeks after I had passed through, although the mainland USA already had cases).

When the talking was finished, the food began. A literal feast was set up and people had brought their own plates and utensils, my host providing a set for me. There was coconut covered taro and many types of fish, breadfruit chips, rice, fruits and plenty more. It reminded me of a luau in Hawaii.

Then the main event started. Men came out with wood boxes, about 4ftx4ft and maybe 10 inches high. They covered these boxes with the woven mats and the men sat around them. More men and women sat around them (the purple on one side of the room, the green on the other.) At the edges were both men and women dancers in grass skirts and decorated with flowers on their heads and around their necks.

The purple side started. Slowly speaking words starting a low-toned, slow song with light drumming on the box at the center. After completing one round of the song they started to speed up, the drumming dictating the speed. The dancers told the story through their hands and swaying. The third time, faster and louder and the fourth or fifth chorus the room was filled with loud singing, fast drumming and cheering. This would continue repeating, louder and faster, until you just about thought they were finished and someone from the group started up another round. When they finished for real, it was the green side’s turn.

The green started the same way. Slow and soft, then louder and faster. Each side sang for 20-30 minutes before passing the game back to the other side. The contest was who sang, drumed, and danced the best. When the songs were at their height occasionally an older man or woman would stand up and dance and sing loudly with face and arms raised to the sky, similar to gospel blues choirs in the south. Also throughout the songs people from the other side wouldwalk over to the singing side with bottles of perfume and spray the dancers and some singers. I tried to find out what the meaning of this was the next day, but no one could explain it to me (one person told me, “it’s just perfume, you can buy it at the store over there.”) But why? What is the meaning? We can travel and see things, but we will never fully understand.

Around 10pm my knees started to ache. I consider myself a fairly flexible person with plenty of yoga in my life, but sitting for hours in the same positing with my legs crossed in my too-tight skirt turned out to be incredibly difficult. (Who would have thought?) I kept trying to move slightly, putting one foot to the top of my other leg and switching the top foot every once in a while. How did these women do this for so long sitting on this unforgiving cement floor? I started to notice some of the women moving so that the knees were together and bent with legs and feet pointing backwards, I adjusted into that position for a little while and just change position helped a little.

The purple vs green Sing-Off/Dance-Battle continued on and on. I started to wonder for how long it would keep going. At one point the head pastor paused the singing and seemed to critique each side (but never actually taking sides) of who he thought was better, but praising both (I’m making a lot of this interpretation up because none of it was in English, but I think that’s what was going on.) On the flight home I was reading one of the only books I could find on Tuvalu and the author said these would go on until dawn.

I did not make it until dawn. Around 1am I politely excused myself to my host and walked back in the dark under a million stars to my hotel. I had left Fiji that morning at 6am, getting up around 3am. I was entirely exhausted, but happy I went. It was one of the few times I felt like I was allowed to watch an event that happened without the influence of outsiders. So often in the Pacific you get to watch the beautiful dancing and hear the lovely singing, but at a show put on for tourists. This felt real and it was truly a privilege to be there.

The next day with my knees aching from sitting crossed legged for so long and much of the rest of my body hurting from riding a very uncomfortable bike for most of the day, I decided to rent a motorbike. How hard could it be, right? When the man came to give me the keys he asked, “You do know how to ride one of these, right.” I’m really not very good at lying and he audibly laughed when I said, “Yeah, I think so, can you just show me how to start it.” He also showed me how to shift gears. Wait…shift gears? When exactly do you shift gears? I think I could still hear him laughing as I pulled out of the drive way an onto the road. (and yes, I don’t recommend this at all.)

Luckily, Tuvalu has only a few roads that are all straight with no hills and not much traffic. The many, large speed bumps were terrifying though. I headed in the opposite direction of my bike ride the day before, passing the runway and ending up where the island ended on the other side. I parked the bike (realizing when I came back that I left the key in the ignition and I was really lucky no one stole it) and walked out to the blindingly white beach made of bits of smooth-polished coral. I could see another island in the distance and I set up my drone to try and get some shoots only to be denied take-off because I was too close to the airport. Dear DJI – Tuvalu receives two flights a week and you do not list Tuvalu on your country list, so it is impossible to request an override to be able to fly. Very disappointing.

After spending a lot of time attempting to get the drone to fly I finally gave up and headed back to my bike, cautiously making my way back to the hotel and then off in the other direction back to the dump. The very end of that side of the island was just out of the no fly zone and I managed to get it up and flying.

The plane only comes in twice a week and the runway (the largest/longest) part of the island serves many purposes. My last night, exhausted by heat and my uncertainty on riding a motorbike, I contemplated an early dinner and sleep before my flight, but at the last minute got back on the motorbike and headed back to no-drone-land to watch the sunset. While many people were out and about during the day, it was clear as the sun was setting and temperatures cooling, everyone came out. The runway was now a place full of activity with joggers exercising using the runway as a track circle, there were football (soccer)  games, even a volleyball net was set up. Motorbikes were parks everywhere with kids and adult played as if it was a recreation center, not an empty runway. They mingled, some hadfood and drinks. Atoll islanders never cease to amaze me. Make the most of every bit of limited space.

At the far west end of the island I rode until I could go no further, parked the bike (took the key out this time to prevent it being stolen and having to walk back) and walked out over white coral rocks polished smooth by the seas. The sky turned yellow and then fire orange, pink and finally dark purple, turning out to be quite spectacular. I started walking back before it got too dark (I wasn’t ready for night motorbike riding) and low and behold two expats were walking along the coral trail. The woman exclaimed, “A person we don’t know!” and we chatted a bit until the darkness and threat of death by motorbike persuaded me back to my lodging.

They were Australian volunteers and had previously worked in the Federated States of Micronesia on Pohnpei. (Small world.) After mentioning my employment in Chuuk they told me how, strangely enough, they were booked on the Air Nugini flight that missed the runway and crashed in Chuuk recently. How strange to be on a rarely visited island talking about an obscure plane crash on another hardly-known island. So many people know nothing of Tuvalu or Chuuk and here I was, among people familiar with both. I found it interesting, as they continued their story, that an argument amongst them prevented their getting on the plane. Was it one of those serendipitous moments of fate?

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To clear children, motorbikes, and pigs from the runway before the plane arrives, a siren is sounded about 20 minutes before the plane lands. Then again about 10 minutes out, and finally continuously throughout the actual event of the plane landing. Despite rumors of Tuvalu shutting its airborne doors that morning in hopes of stopping coronavirus from getting in (being stranded on islands seemed to be my theme lately) the plane did arrive and I got on it. I could have stayed a few more days, I was quite entranced by this tiny island.

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What a crazy start to the year it as been. I spent the first six week captaining the MV Odyssey in Truk Lagoon (there’s a new video on YouTube). Right before I was about to leave the Federated States of Micronesia enforced a travel ban to keep COVID-19 out, bring our boat to a standstill as no divers can arrive in the country. Ikelite recently published a piece on my Top 5 Wrecks of Truk Lagoon (to photograph).

Dive Photo Guide published a piece I wrote called Take Photos, Save the World about the responsibilities underwater photographers have to be ethical in how they take photos and the importance of sharing what we see underwater.

An article I wrote for UK Diver Magazine is online at Diver Net - Service Ethics about my trip to Belize with Aggressor Fleet which turned out to be great even with an excessive amount of travel challenges. I have also been writing some blogs for All Star Liveaboards - check out their website for some fun content.

What in the World is Muck Diving?

Top 10 Underwater Photography Tips

I hope everyone is safe and healthy during these crazy times. While dive travel isn’t an option right now, it will be again soon and we will need to support our favorite dive shops and resorts so they can continue to be there for the future. I have a few upcoming trips that are still planed to go as scheduled if things are back to normal by then.

In September the Ladies Dive and Art trip will be September 12-19th, 2020 and the next week, September 19-26th, everyone is invited for a mini underwater photography workshop. The Red Sea Underwater Photography Workshop will be November 12-19 on the Omneia liveaboard. Feel free to send me a message if you’d like more info. Would love to spend some time underwater with you all!